ORDER Essential Oil Steam Distiller

Essential Oil Distiller Operating Instruction

Our Essential Oil Distiller is a true vertical steam distillation unit made from scientific-grade borosilicate glass, specifically designed for easy steam extraction of essential oils from plant materials by the non-chemist at home, resulting in the highest purity essential oils. Unlike other steam distillation units on the market, ours' offers true "dry steam" distillation in an all glass (Pyrex) system. Coupled together with ground glass joints, there are no hoses or rubber stoppers in contact with your product because it's all glass! The "open-to-atmosphere" design means that steam pressure can never build up in the system, making the system much safer to operate and insuring that the distillation process will take place at exactly 100 degrees C (at sea level) and not a degree higher! The simple design addresses a number of problems associated with competitor's stills, Because of it's "vertical" design, the biomass flask stays dry, none of the "boiling water" is wastefully condensed and trapped in the biomass flask, and because it uses separate flasks for boiling and biomass, there's further insurance that overheating or possibly burning your plant material will never happen. Our uniquely designed filter traps up to 20mL of either "heavier than water" oils or "lighter than water" oils while automatically draining away the excess condensed water (the "Hydrosol", that can be kept for many purposes) thus allowing you to start the distillation and let it proceed on it's own without constant need of attention. When the distillation is complete, the receiver then doubles as a tapered separatory funnel, allowing you to easily separate your prized oil from the remaining water.

The production of a very small amount of essential oil requires the distillation of a lot of water. Other essential oil distilling setups require that you constantly watch the vessel that catches the condenser drips because the excess water must be constantly drained off as it is condensed. When the distillation is complete, the contents of the "catch vessel" must then be transferred to a separatory funnel in order to separate the water and oil layers. This is cause for much time and labor unnecessarily spent. We have designed a unique receiver that captures both "lighter-than-water", and "heavier-than-water" oils and continuously and automatically drains off any water ("Hydrosol") that's being condensed!! You can simply send the excess water to the drain and toss it, or it can be kept as "Hydrosol" and used. Water drips in to the receiver, and as it fills, excess water begins to be removed from the middle of the vessel via the side-pipe. The vent on the side pipe is to prevent siphoning action. As your oil accumulates, it either floats on top or sinks to the bottom of the receiver, while water from the center of the vessel is constantly drained off. The receiver can hold approximately 20mL of either weight oil. When the distillation is complete, the Teflon valve is carefully opened and the water and oil is then drained and separated into respective vials. Because it is all automatic, you can start the distillation and walk away for hours at a time, with confidence that everything is going to plan.

LOADING THE BIOMASS FLASK

NOTE: If you are working around a sink, tile or other hard surface, please LINE IT WITH A TOWEL or FOAM RUBBER DRAWER LINER available from the grocery store. You don't want to be amazed at how easy it is to break glassware.

LOADING THE BIOMASS FLASK

First insert the little stainless steel screen tube that we provide into the bottom of the flask, so the plant material doesn't clog the hole or fall through. Just fold it a little at the top and stick it through the bottom of the flask until it is flush with the bottom of the flasks' joint.



Now load your plant material into the bioflask. For 2 and 5 liter bioflasks it is best to cut the plant material into 1 inch (max) chunks. This makes it easier to both load and unload through the mouth of the flask. It's okay to use any type of plant matter in the biomass flask with the exception of powder or resinous chunks. Powder will clump up and cause the bottom opening to plug, and steam won't be able to get to most of it- or it may just fall into the boiling flask. Resins must be hydrodistilled and simply won't work in this setup.

It is fine to stuff the bioflask full of plant material, although it will also work fine if it is partially empty (you just won't get as much oil). Use a plastic or wooden dowel about 1/2" in diameter to help to pack it (the dowel is also useful for cleaning out the damp plants after distilling). DONšT use metal or you'll break the flask!


It's ok to use any consistency of plant matter in the biomass flask with exception of powder. Powder may clump and cause the bottom opening to plug, or it may just "fall in" and get into the boiling flask. If you're distilling rosemary, for example, you'll be able to just cram the flask full and distill!, because it's big and bushy. But if you're using cut plant matter or finer consistency material, you might want to insert the little stainless steel screen tube that we provide into the bottom of the flask, so the plant material doesn't clog the hole or fall down it. Just fold it a little at it's top and stick it up in thru the bottom of the flask. In any case, STUFF THE FLASK FULL with plant material!! The bioflask stuffed with rosemary is shown at left. Examples of some oils recovered with this unit are shown below:

 

 

Assembling the Backplate/Support Rod Holder/Hardware

Place support rod into the clamp built into the rear of the hotplate by squeezing the top and bottom of the clamp together and inserting the rod thru the holes. Now Assemble the two clamps to the support rod and placing them both high up on the rod. Leave the clamp screws snug but not tight. For 240 volt hotplates only, place the square wire mesh pad onto the stove, centered on the stove heater-coils, ceramic side up.
Here's a photo of how the clamps assemble:




The backplate is provided as a heat-shield to prevent line-of-sight infra-red heat from the hotplate from heating up the customer's receiver flask as the distillation process continues. Screw the back plate on to the rear of the hotplate using the two #8 screws provided.



Place support rod into the clamp built into the rear of the hotplate by squeezing the top and bottom of the clamp together and inserting the rod thru the holes. Now assemble the two clamps to the support rod and placing them both high up on the rod. Leave the screws snug but not tight.

Putting the Glassware Together

Ground glass joints will freeze together if not properly lubricated! Three small packets of silicone joint grease compound have been provided. Before assembling any of the ground glass joints, please put a tiny dab of grease on the male end and wipe it into a line using a toothpick or your finger.



Assemble the joint, twist it gently into its socket, rotating at least one rotation to spread the grease around. If you have the right amount, the joint connection will rotate smoothly and become slightly "clear" to the eye. Too much grease- it will spin with very little friction and you'll have grease mushing out; too little and the joint will not become "clear" as you press on it and rotate it, and it will feel sticky. It actually takes very little grease to do the job. The amount in the tube may seem small, but it should last at least a month or two with daily use of the still. .
Ground glass joints will freeze together if not properly lubricated! Three small packets of Silicone joint grease compound have been provided. Before assembling any of the ground glass joints, it is recommended that you first put a tiny dab of grease on the male end and wipe it into a line using a toothpick or your finger. Then assemble the joint, twist it gently into it's socket, rotating it at least one rotation to spread the grease around. If you have the right amount, the joint connection will rotate smoothly and become slightly "clear" to the eye. Too much grease- it will spin with very little friction and you'll have grease mushing out everywhere; too little and the joint will not become "clear" as you press on it and rotate it, and it will feel sticky. It actually takes very little grease to do the job. The amount in the vial may seem small, but it should last at least a month or two with daily use of the still.

Start by filling the boiling flask about 2/3 full with water (a little more is OK but no more than 2/3 maximum). Since you're distilling the water, tap water is OK, but you may want to use distilled or purified water so you don't get things like chlorine vapors coming into your biomass. Grease the biomass flask joints and assemble the biomass flask to the boiling flask (pre-loaded with plant material of course). Place the biomass flask on top of the boiling flask, center the flasks on the burner, and secure the flasks using the upper clamp, attached to the top neck of the biomass flask. NOW lightly grease both ends of the steam transfer tube and drop it into the top of the biomass flask. Clip the condenser to the transfer tube using the provided red plastic "Keck" clamp. Last, FILL the receiver (preload it) with distilled water- close the stopcock and pour in enough water to make it come out the drain tube.

IF YOU DO NOT PRELOAD THE RECEIVER WITH DISTILLED WATER

As the distillation process begins and receiver fills up with condensed water, the water's level will eventually rise above the bottom level of the outlet pipe. You will likely have a small quantity of essential oil floating on the surface in the receiver by then, and you'll notice that a small "plug" of it gets caught in the receiver's outlet pipe. This oil will be lost into the hydrosol collection flask and will not be easy to recover. If you preload the receiver with water before starting the distillation, this will not happen. SO preload the receiver with water, and now using the green keck clamp, assemble it to the condenser. You will now use the second clamp provided to hold it in place to the stand/support rod. If you've done it correctly it will look like the photos. The backplate should stand between the heater coils and the receiver, so that heat radiating from the heater does not have a "line if sight" path to the receiver. (this keeps your distilled oil cool). Place your own catch flask under the receivers' drip tip to catch the first hydrosol that comes off during distillation. It's best to position it so the drips hit the rim of the container, so they don't splash as they drip into the water. OR if you are not interested in keeping the hydrosol, you can place the whole still on the edge of your sink so the hydrosol simply drips into the drain and goes away.

Boiling water and glass clamps

Start by filling the boiling flask about 1/2 full with water (a little more is okay but no more than 2/3 maximum). Tap water is okay, but you may prefer to use distilled or purified water so you don't get chlorine vapors steaming through your biomass. Grease the glass stopper included and plug the side port with it. Grease the biomass flask joints and place the biomass flask (pre-loaded with plant material) on top of the boiling flask, center the flasks on the burner, and secure the flasks using the upper metal clamp, attached to the top neck of the boiling flask. NOW lightly grease both ends of the still head and attach it to the top of the biomass flask. Clip the condenser to the still head using the provided red plastic "Keck" clamp. Next, FILL the receiver (preload it) with distilled water- close the stopcock and pour in enough water to make it come out the side drain tube.

IF YOU DO NOT PRELOAD THE RECEIVER WITH DISTILLED WATER... This is what will happen... As the distillation process begins and the receiver fills up with condensed water, the water's level will eventually rise above the bottom level of the outlet pipe. You will likely have a small quantity of essential oil floating on the surface in the receiver by then, and you'll notice a small "plug" of it get caught in the receiver's outlet pipe. This oil will be lost into the hydrosol collection flask and will not be easy to recover. If you preload the receiver with water before starting the distillation, this will not happen.

Using the green Keck clamp, clip the preloaded receiver to the condenser. You will now use the second metal clamp provided to hold the receiver in place to the stand/support rod. The metal heat-shield plate mounted to the hoptlate should be between the heater and the receiver, so that heat radiating from the heater does not have a "line of sight" path to the receiver. This keeps your distilled oil cool. Place a drinking glass or bottle (500mL or so in capacity) under the receiver's side drip tip to catch the first hydrosol that comes off during distillation. It's best to position it so the drops hit the rim of the container, so they don't splash as they drip into the water... OR if you are not interested in keeping the hydrosol, you can place the whole still on the edge of your sink so the hydrosol simply drains away.
 

WATER FOR THE CONDENSER

The easiest thing you can do is to use tap water to circulate water through the condenser. Water goes IN THE BOTTOM and OUT THE TOP of the condenser. Tap water will work just fine, and you can drain the exiting water to your garden or the sink drain. Experts say chilled water is better, and recirculating it with a pump (optional but not provided with the kit) conserves this precious resource. If you use the pump, use a bucket of ice water and drop the pump in it (it's submersible) to circulate chilled water through the condenser and back to the bucket. In any case, the water only needs to be a trickle, but IT MUST ALWAYS BE MOVING. Once the distillation gets underway, you will be able to tell if your flow is enough by feeling the temperature of the water coming out...if it is cold to luke warm, your flow is enough. If it's warm or hot, turn up the flow. If you use the pump instead of tap water, plan on using up at least three "grocery store" sized bags of ice per distillation. Be sure to plug the hoses on to the condensers' glass hose-bibs snugly... a hose popping off in the middle of a distillation is a good way to make a real mess! The hose may seem difficult to get on to the condenser fittings- if so, simply warm the end of the hose with hot water or over a lighter or candle flame (don't burn it!) and it will then stretch easily and slip on. (You may have to cut it off with a razor blade later.) BASICALLY THAT'S IT. Turn on the condenser water, Make sure the stopcock on the receiver is CLOSED, turn the hotplate on FULL HIGH and let it rip! NOTE: 240 volt hotplates and Proctor Silex hotplates (the white ones): The hotplate knob on these models can turn "up" more than one turn- be sure to only turn it up as high as you need by watching the indicator light- if it goes off during the distillation, turn it up a bit and watch it- again if needed until it stays on all the time.

The easiest way to cool your condenser is to use tap water coming in to and through the condenser, then going out of the condenser and down the drain or into your garden. Water goes IN THE BOTTOM and OUT THE TOP of the condenser. The water only needs to be a trickle, but IT MUST ALWAYS BE MOVING. Once the distillation gets underway, you will be able to tell if your flow is enough by feeling the temperature of the water coming out...if it is cold to luke warm, your flow is enough. If it's warm or hot, turn up the flow.

Chilled water is also an option- recirculating it in a bucket full of ice water with a submersible pump (optional- available from our website) conserves water over the tap/drain method BUT it requires LOTS OF ICE. If you use a pump, use a 5 gallon bucket of ice water and drop the pump in it to circulate chilled water through the condenser and back to the bucket. When using this method of cooling, plan on using at least three "grocery store" sized bags of ice, or one block of ice per distillation. Also the bucket of ice water must be at the same table height as the distiller, or the pump might not be able to provide enough flow.


Be sure to plug the hoses onto the condensers' glass hose-bibs snugly... a hose popping off in the middle of a distillation can make a real mess! The hose may seem difficult to get on to the condenser fittings- if so, simply warm the end of the hose with hot water or over a lighter or candle flame (don't burn it!) and it will then stretch easily and slip on. (You may have to cut it off with a razor blade later, once it's on, the hose material likes to stay there!). We've provided a rubber faucet adapter (shown in the drawing above) that may make it easier to hook the hose to most sink or garden faucets. You may have to cut the inlet hole a little bigger with a sharp knife or small scissors to get it to slip over larger faucets.

THE DISTILLATION PROCESS

As the water heats up and starts to boil, you'll see steam starting to finally come out the top as the biomass flask heats up. This takes about half an hour. (The distiller head is shown at left below.) Eventually you'll finally see that first drip make it's way down the condenser and into the receiver (shown at center and right below). Then you'll see a layer of oil starting to form -- there it is!! You will likely find that with many plants, the bulk of the oil comes off in the first 10-20 minutes, and the remainder takes 2-4 hours.



 

As the water heats up and starts to boil, you'll see steam starting to come out the top of the biomass flask into the still head. This takes about half an hour. Eventually you'll finally see that first drip make its way down the condenser and into the receiver. Soon you'll see a layer of oil starting to form... there it is!! You will likely find that with many plants, the bulk of the oil comes off in the first 10-20 minutes, and the remainder takes 1-3 hours.

As the process continues, you may notice that the boiling water becomes colored- sometimes dramatically, sometimes not depending on the plant. This is due to water soluble components of the plant dripping down into the boiling flask. Don't worry, there is no oil getting down there- just colored water! The oil will ALL end up in the receiver, and the layer there will grow as time goes on.



You can tell when the distillation is done primarily by noticing that the oil layer has not grown substantially in the last 30 minutes, or that the hydrosol coming out no longer smells like much. I like to mark the oil level in the receiver with a sharpie line drawn directly on the glass, and then come back 30 minutes later to see if the layer has grown. If not, you're done! The plant material will also look dull and spent when the distillation is finished- but recognizing this part may take a bit of practice.

When you finally decide it's done you simply turn everything off and let it cool down, remove the receiver, carefully drain off all the hydrosol left in the receiver by slowly opening the stopcock, and when the water is gone and the oil layer has just barely hit the bottom, quickly close the stopcock.
I personally like to clamp the receiver to the support rod and let it hang there for an hour or so, to allow any oil stuck on the inside to make it's way down and join the big puddle, especially if the plant is not a big oil producer. If there's lots of oil, that step is unnecessary. Either way, I finally open the stopcock and carefully drain the oil into a clean bottle.

HINTS

If you wrap your bioflask with a bath towel held in place by clothespins, it will insulate the flask somewhat and this will help keep it at steam temperature. The result will be less steam condensing in the bioflask and returning to the boiling pot as water, which means more of the steam will get through the bioflask and into the condenser. Your distillation will go faster and you'll create more hydrosol. It's an option with the 2 liter flask, a good idea with a 5 liter, and mandatory on a 10 liter system. Please be sure to keep the towel away from the hot part of the electric burner- I've caught mine on fire more than once by not paying attention!!!. Also be sure you have adequate indoor ventilation or do your distilling outside. Oils are potent!

BURNED SMELL?

Note: You may notice that when you're finished, your oil and/or hydrosol smells like it's a bit "burned". This is a natural occurrance with any steam distillation system and it's not actually "burn" that you're smelling- it's stinky phenols and/or related compounds from the plant that have been distilled along with the oil. By simply leaving the oil and hydrosol bottles uncapped and open to air for a time ranging from a day to a week depending on the oil, this stinky note will disappear. Smell the oil daily and when one day it smells "yummy", it's time to cap it up for use or storage.
Brown glass bottles are best to use for storage because they keep light out, and refrigeration at this point will make your oils last longer.

FINISHING

As the process continues, the oil layer will grow, and when it's all done, you simply turn everything off and let it cool down, remove the receiver, carefully drain off all the water you can by slowly opening the stopcock, and when the water's gone and the oil layer has just barely hit the bottom, quickly close the stopcock. Then clamp the receiver to the support rod and let it hang there for 10 minutes or so, to allow any oil stuck on the sides to make it's way down and join the big puddle. Then finally, open the stopcock and drain the oil into a vial.

BOILING and SOLVENTS

Not that you need this information, but in case you have any questions about boiling and what it actually is, why you are supposed to use boiling chips with solvents other than water, or perhaps you want to know the boiling temperatures of many common solvents, CLICK HERE


CLEANING

Just swirl a lot of soapy water around in the parts, and use a bristle brush to clean everything. It's all pyrex, so it can also be put in a dishwasher. It's a good idea to first wipe as much of the joint grease out as you can with a paper towel or tissue. My wife will sometimes rinse the parts first with a swirl of vodka to dissolve and remove any oils from the flasks and parts prior to washing them with soapy water. Rinse very well to remove all the soap residues. BE CAREFUL to not clunk the glass against the sink... those plastic liners are nice for safety... most glassware is broken during cleaning! If the flasks bump into a hard object they may develop little tiny "star" cracks. These are dangerous- they can be repaired, but if left unattended, they can easily cause a flask to crack or break apart at the most inconvenient time, like when it's full of boiling water...BE CAREFUL WITH THE GLASSWARE!!

I've found that using a 3/8" diameter dowel or plastic rod is helpful for quickly poking plant matter and stems out of the biomass flask. Don't be tempted to use metal or you'll break your flask. Shaking the bioflask over a plastic trashcan also works well to remove the bulk of the plant material. Guck in the boiling flask that builds up from the mineral deposits of your tap water can quickly be removed with an overnight soak in vinegar, or if you're in a hurry, a swirl of muriatic acid (pool acid) or dilute hydrochloric acid. I haven't tried it but a good soak with Lime-away will probably work just as well. BE CAREFUL with these chemicals; they are dangerous. If using anything other than vinegar, use safety glasses and good rubber gloves!! Be sure to rinse everything very well before your next distillation.

I usually do not remove the water hoses from the condenser- I've found that for the most part, simply pouring a little soapy water inside the center tube, plugging the ends with my fingers, and giving it a good shake is enough to clean the inner condenser tube, but the water jacket should never need cleaning. It's a lot easier to just leave the hoses on for storage than risk breaking things trying to get them off each time you use the system. If you do have to remove them and they are stubborn, use a sharp knife and slit the hose at its base, and it will come off easily. The only problem with doing this is that your hoses magically get shorter and shorter....

Many people find it very helpful to make notes after each distillation so they can repeat great results. Time of year, variety of plant, and stage of the plant's growth cycle can all make a huge difference in yield.


OPTIONAL COMPONENTS

Bioflasks

A 5 liter bioflask is available for $90 if purchased with the distiller instead of the 2 liter bioflask. The unit is $125 if purchased in addition to the 2 liter bioflask. This larger flask allows you to make a lot more oil per distillation run. Nothing else is needed to turn your 2 liter kit into a 5 liter system! A 10 liter The TEN liter system can be special ordered for $699 plus shipping. The boiling flask is 2 liters as usual but it has a larger connecting joint (34/45) and the bioflask's top is also a larger joint (60/50).Incuded with the 10 liter system are three flask clamps, a longer support rod, and an insulating blanket with drawstrings that covers the bioflask to keep the heat in where it belongs. Note that the 10 liter system's boiling flask, bioflask, and stillhead are NOT compatible with the 2 and 5 liter systems because of the larger joint sizes. CLICK HERE to learn about other things you can do with this kit, and optional accessories available.



 

Adapter Kit Add-On for 2 and 5 liter systems:

This kit, $75, enables you to set 2 and 5 liter distillers up for many different kinds of operations ranging from hydrodistillation to solvent recovery and tincture concentration. The ground glass thermometer adapter well is only available on the distiller head, if you order the Adapter Kit at the time you place your original order for the distiller. It is not present on the standard model and MUST BE ORDERED WITH THE ORIGINAL DISTILLER ORDER.
 

Here are a few different ways to set it up with the adapter kit:


 

HYDRODISTILLATION

If you wish to do a "Hydrodistillation" instead of a steam distillation (the biomass is simply stuck right in there with the boiling water instead of in a separate flask), use the long hydrodistillation adapter from the option kit in place of the biomass flask, and then set the still up the same as you would for steam distillation. You might want to wrap a towel around the tube as an insulating jacket, to help the steam to go all the way up to the top without condensing.

Mix your biomass in with the water in the boiling flask and proceed as normal. The collector flask shown in these photos is supplied by the customer. You may use any convenient flask, bottle, or beaker for this purpose. The wire heating pad shown in these photos is not necessary on this kind of heater, but can be used if desired (customer supplied).

Other "Classic" Distillations

More traditional laboratory distillations, such as solvent recovery, sometimes require the use of a thermometer in the process, and a slightly different setup using other of the optional kit's components (see Adapter Kit). In this case, put the solvent to be recovered into the bio flask which has been capped with the little cap from the kit, and put the thermometer from the kit into the top of the stillhead with the thermometer adapter option. NOT SHOWN in the photo -- you then need to submerge the lower half of the bioflask in a pot of water that you then heat with the hotplate, and this will then boil your solvent and cause it to distill and purify. The purified solvent can be recovered in a beaker, bottle, or flask. The thermometer will allow you to monitor the progress of the distillation as it runs.

Brief Instructions on Distillation

Turn the heat on and as things get going, turn it down until the rate of drip out the condenser is about a drip or two per second, which is the distillation rate at which you typically get the best purity. Watch the thermometer as the distillate starts coming over, you'll see the thermometer shoot up to it's published boiling temperature. As long as the temperature stays there, you're collecting what you want. When all of what you are collecting is gone from the boiling mixture, the temperature will often take a dip, distillation will stop for a moment as the temperature of the boiling pot increases, and then it will all resume at a higher temperature. This signals that it's time to stop at this point, or you'll now be diluting your prized catch with stuff you don't want! ALWAYS use boiling chips to even out the boiling action in these kinds of distillations. (We do not supply these small stone chips; search online).

Tincture concentration:
 

Using the adapter tube and cap, when set up as shown here you can use the set to concentrate tinctures by driving out the solvents and recovering them in the 500ml flask. The concentrated tincture will stay in the adapter tube and cap. As in the solvent recovery setup above, you then need to submerge the lower half of the adapter tube in a pot of water that you then heat with the hotplate. The receiver is not used in these distillations.

Turn the heat on and as things get going, turn it down until the rate of drip out the condenser is about a drip or two per second. Watch the thermometer as the distillate starts coming over, you'll see the thermometer shoot up to it's published boiling temperature. As long as the temperature stays there, you're collecting what you want. When all of what you are collecting is gone from the boiling brew, the temperature will often take a dip, distillation will stop for a moment as the temperature of the boiling pot increases, and then it will all resume at a higher temperature. This signals that it's time to stop at this point, or you'll now be diluting your prized catch with stuff you don't want!

Advantages of Our Essential Oil Distiller Over Conventional Distillers

Problem:
Lots of water always condenses in the biomass flask- it's unavoidable, and it accumulates and eventually covers up a lot of the plant material I'm trying to distill.
Solution:

In the EOV2000, that water simply drips back down into the boiling flask to be reused, instead of accumulating in the biomass flask being wasted and causing plant material to become flooded and no longer in contact with steam.
The EOV2000 vertical design insures that the biomass stays dry.

Problem:
I have to constantly add water to the steam generator flask
Solution:
Because any water condensed in the EOV's biomass flask automatically drains back down into the boiling flask, the EOV2000 can go for three hours or more without having to add new water to the boiling pot. There's a ground glass stopper in the side of the boiling flask to make water addition very easy, in case you need to.

Problem:
The distiller takes up the whole room, it's so big and spread out
Solution:
Our vertical design is very compact and doesn't take up the whole kitchen sink!!

Problem:
Uncondensed steam occasionally comes out of the end of the condenser...isn't this potentially loosing precious oil?
Solution:

YES! Inefficient condenser arrangements loose oil!
Unlike systems with vertical "up-going" or traditional 105 degree angled condensers from which uncondensed steam can often escape, the EOV2000 has a vertical "down-going" condenser in which the steam is forced straight down. This insures complete condensation and no chance of steam or product escaping

Problem:
Systems that put the biomass right in the boiling water can heat it above boiling water temperature- 100c, and i don't like my biomass getting any hotter than necessary.
Solution:

EOV2000 is an "opened" system, and allows only steam at atmospheric pressure to touch the biomass, meaning that pressure and/or temperature cannot build up, thus eliminating the possibility of excess temperatures ruining your product.
The biomass can never get hotter than 100 degrees C under any situation.


HERE IS WHAT'S IN THE BASIC KIT:
Basically everything you need to open the box, harvest your herb garden, and make Essential Oils!

ALL NEW BOROSILICATE (generically called "pyrex") GLASSWARE:
* 2 liter boiling flask, 24/40 sized ground glass joint and side port for water addition
* 2 liter Biomass flask, 24/40 joint on bottom and large 45/50 joint on top
* Still Head, 45/50 with male spherical condenser joint.
* West Condenser, with a spherical joint that allows a wide range of alignment without risk of breakage or loss of seal integrity
* Receiver/separatory funnel with teflon valve

MECHANICAL PARTS:
* New hotplate with built-in flask support rod
* Two laboratory Clamps
* Packet of silicon joint grease
* Keck Clamps to hold condenser, receiver, and still head together
* Simple assembly and operation instructions


This is the perfect system for making your own high-frequency, steam-distilled essential oils! The unit is a true vertical steam distillation system designed for extraction of essential oils from plant materials at home. Unlike other steam distillation units on the market, this unit performs true "dry steam" distillation in an all-glass system. Using only ground glass joints, there are no hoses or rubber stoppers to contaminate your product. Because of its "vertical" design, the biomass flask stays dry, none of the "boiling water" is wastefully condensed and trapped in the biomass flask, and there is no risk of overheating or possibly burning your plant material. The unique receiver traps up to 20mL of either "heavier than water" oils or "lighter than water" oils, while automatically draining away the excess condensed water (the "hydrosol" that has many useful purposes). Processing is automatic, and the receiver doubles as a separatory funnel, allowing you to easily separate your prized oil from the remaining water. Includes: hotplate with built-in flask support stand, 2 liter boiling flask with ground glass joint and side port for water addition, 2 liter biomass flask with ground glass joints on bottom and top, still head with male spherical condenser joint, West condenser with a spherical joint that allows easy  alignment, receiver-separatory funnel with Teflon valve, two laboratory clamps, packet of joint grease, 2 Keck clamps, and complete instructions.

PLEASE NOTE: The thermometer well on the still is only supplied if you order the Adapter Kit with the distiller now. The strandard joint size is 34/45 on 2 liter units and 45/50 on 5 liter units. If you want a different size, order "Custom Joint Size" and indicate size in the order notes. This item ships in 3-9 days. (No P.O. boxes) Options below must be ordered at the time the distiller order is placed only.

  Steam Distillation Apparatus. 110 or 220 VAC. Item #599. $400
  Adapter Kit Add-On Item #599A. Cannot be ordered separately. $75
  5-liter Bioflask (Instead of 2-liter flask). Item #599B. Cannot be ordered separately. $100
   Extra 5-liter Bioflask (With the 2-liter flask). Item #599C. Cannot be ordered separately. $150
  Optional Water Pump (for condenser 110 VAC).  Cannot be ordered separately. Item #599D. $30
  Change Joint Size (indicate desired size on order). Cannot be ordered separately. Item #599E. $40
 

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